“I’ve been driving these roads for over 20 years. And before that, it was my father, and before him, his father, my grandfather, took tourists with a donkey and cart.” Aphrodite tours manager, Marinos explained. The pitching and rolling of the 4x4 as we were driven gingerly along a well used and exceedingly off-road track. Rising up away from the sea, it is fascinating to witness the various rugged aspects of Cyprus.
The protected Akamas peninsula nestled in north-west Cyprus, is a juxtaposition of the rugged and wild that inspires many to visit. Those, like me, wanting a moment of nature and tranquillity, and the throngs of tourists that decide to purchase a cruise ticket and arrive by boat on a seemingly luxurious vessel. Both united in a desire to experience the pristine beauty and environment of the region, albeit through different lenses of exploration. Multiple bays of crystalline waters entice weary travellers looking to cool off in the Cypriot heat. The area itself is famed for being the location of the Baths of Aphrodite, where legend has it that she bathed and rejuvenated and also frolicked with her mortal lover, Adonis.
Regardless of the level of frolicking involved, it is a truly beautiful area that deserves the accolades and attention. That said, I must confess a disappointment in the sheer volume of glass bottomed boat tours with giant inflatable slides that moored in the nearby and aptly named, Blue Lagoon. Once the music started blaring and you can smell the barbecues cooking, it seems in a way to lose some of its magic. I can’t help but wonder how the Goddess of Love feels of her baths being overwhelmed and inundated and not always treated with the reverence or respect I imagine she would expect and that they deserve.
I can certainly say as a tourist arriving by land after 25 minutes of pitching and rolling, I was not thrilled with sharing the spit of a land that can be called a beach, with five boat loads of people swimming to shore. Yet, we must be ever cognisant of the double-edged sword that is the tourist industry.
Those daring enough to try to reach the Blue Lagoon on foot need to be aware and well prepared for the distance, significant elevation changes and lack of shade for extensive stretches of the road. I would also recommend that before you head off, ask for advice on how to get to the beach itself once you do get in the vicinity, as there is a small and easily missable secret passage hidden between shrubs that leads to a steep section where you need to clamber over rocks to get to the beach. Without Marinos showing us the route, we certainly would have missed it and spent time wandering up and down the track.
The roads within the peninsula can be exceedingly challenging, so a vehicle equipped for off-road conditions is essential. “Bad idea”, our guide said as we pass an overly eager and ambitious tourist who is attempting the treacherous road in their hire car. Haven been driven there and back, I couldn’t but agree with our guide. The road is definitely not one for standard hire cars. It is bad enough with a Land Rover Defender and Toyota Mitsubishi with reduced gears to navigate the rustic off-road track, but a standard hire car …. you better have awesome all-encompassing insurance is all I can say.
Regardless of the way you reach the Blue Lagoon and which lens of exploration you would like to experience it through, or if you prefer to simply swim in the proximity of the Baths of Aphrodite, it can be said that the whole area around the Akamas Peninsula is a remarkable location that is a beautiful blend of ancient myth and untamed natural beauty, worthy of our attention and continued reverence.
Tips for making the most of your trip
1. Plan your trip: Be it walking, driving or by boat, the Akamas peninsula is best explored either starting from Polis or Paphos. You can rent a 4x4 vehicle for better access to the terrain, be driven in a 4x4 shuttle to the Blue Lagoon from the Baths of Aphrodite car park, or rent a boat or join a cruise for the day. Make sure that you are prepared and plan your trip in advance as it tends to book quickly.
2. Time your visit: Temperatures around midday can be quite high, particularly in the summer months, and there is little to no shade on either beach, so make sure to visit around cooler times to enhance your enjoyment. Early morning or late afternoon would be best, and the lighting can lead to even better photos of the stunning coastline.
3. Take essentials: There are limited facilities both around the Baths of Aphrodite and the Blue Lagoon, so make sure to take your own supplies of water, sunscreen and hat to stay hydrated and protected. There is a bar area with toilet facilities near the Baths of Aphrodite car park, but there are no facilities at the Blue Lagoon other than what nature provides.
4. Wear appropriate footwear: If you decide to brave the road and explore the Akamas peninsula on foot, either to trek to the Avakas Gorge or to walk to the Blue Lagoon and Fontana Amoroza, then make sure to take sturdy and waterproof hiking boots or shoes, as the terrain is very uneven and long with large elevation changes. Standard flip flops may or may not last the journey.
5. Accessibility: Leaving the coastal village of Polis behind you by car, the road to the Baths of Aphrodite is clearly signed and there is a large free car park. To walk down to the pebbly beach at the Baths of Aphrodite there is a steep descent with steps, while the Blue Lagoon can be accessed overland through the 4x4 shuttle service which runs hourly, or by sea.
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