Driving 30 minutes south from Peyia, is Petra Tou Romiou, an interesting outcrop of rock emerging from the sea. Home to a nesting family of ravens, three large rocks seem to prop each other up, with a small opening for the waves to tease through and with white foam bubbling beneath. Sea fog rolls in with the waves, shrouding the mythical rock and surrounding beaches with a mysticism that seems oddly appropriate, given that this is the reputed birth place of the Greek Goddess of Love, Aphrodite.
In the west part of Cyprus there is plenty of reference to the Goddess of love, beauty and fertility: from baths to beaches, temples to restaurants. According to the legend, Aphrodite was said to have emerged from sea foam at this very spot and then carried to shore by the waves on a shell pulled by dolphins. The myth is rooted in Hesiod’s Theogeny, a key source of Greek mythology and the name "Aphrodite" itself is derived from the Greek word aphros, meaning foam, further linking the goddess to the sea and this location. Over the centuries the site of Petra Tou Romiou has been revered as a sacred site, attracting pilgrims and travellers alike wanting to connect with the divinity of Aphrodite. While Aphrodite was central to ancient Greek culture and revered across the Mediterranean, it is in Cyprus she had one of her most important centres of followers.
Walking down to the beach through the underpass that has been constructed in a way that feels positively Roman, I find myself frowning at a single shrubby tree just at the beginning of the beach which appears heavily littered with bits of tissue scattered under it’s twiggy canopy. The whole saying of ‘leave only footprints’ doesn’t appear to be in effect around this specific tree, as I discover later that people tie white tissues to the tree in hope to be granted some divine help with either their love life or child bearing. While the sentiment is not really much different to the craze of locking your padlocks around bridges all over the world, I confess that my initial reaction was one of disdain at how people could leave so much rubbish around, before I understood that what the tree itself represents. Moving beyond the tree, the beach itself is scattered with pebbles and if lady luck happens to be on your side when you visit, you can find several heart shaped pebbles which continue to add to the credibility of the location being linked to Aphrodite. The local saying also goes that if swim around the rock, you will be blessed with luck in finding your heart’s desire and eternal beauty. The warm cerulean water around the outcrop is deep but clean and devoid of the microplastics that I have unfortunately witnessed at other locations during this trip to Cyprus.
Moving towards the water, you can see various rock formations. My one and only golden piece of advice when you visit? Just make sure that you are taking pictures of the right rock! I cannot count the number of people posing in front of the wrong formation, including a particularly over-zealous tourist who, as a prop, brought an entire thick duvet to the beach to add extra flair to her Insta photo alongside the typical excessive pouting and various outfit changes… That not only takes a certain level of dedication, but also in my opinion a modicum of insanity given that it is 34°C. All for one Instagram shot. Of the wrong rock. Regardless, the site stands as a symbol of a rich cultural heritage that embodies a deep connection to a mythological past and offers visitors a unique opportunity to step into the world of ancient myths, where the lines between history, legend and nature blur, creating an experience that is as spiritually touching as it is visually stunning.
As the fog starts to burn off with the midday sun and the sea starts to shimmer with diamonds once more, I can just imagine how beautiful and picturesque this scene is, but for today as a new coach load of tourists park up, it seems the Gods want to keep this beautiful sacred secret to themselves.
Hints and tips when visiting
Location: Western Cyprus near the town of Paphos (25 km distance)
When to visit: Early morning or late afternoon for fewer crowds and breathtaking sunsets
Accessing the site: A large free car park is available opposite the coastal road. To access the site, make sure to use the underpass rather than trying to cross the busy road.
Nearby attractions: A short drive away from Petra Tou Romiou, you can visit the ancient city of Kouklia (Palaipafos), home to the Sanctuary of Aphrodite, and the picturesque village of Pissouri with a charming square and beach.
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