It has been quite a while since my last blog post, but the travelling (and writing) itself hasn't stopped. My latest trip took me to a number of beautiful locations around the Mediterranean, including the stunning Amalfi coast. Naples and the surrounding area unfortunately has a reputation historically across the world and even across Italy for not being the safest location, however it is a beautiful part of the globe that should be on everyone's list of places to visit. Here is a selection of my top things to do and see when you plan your trip to the area.
Pompeii and Herculaneum
We all know the story of the 79AD eruption of Vesuvio, which engulfed the Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum with pyroclastic flows. Where Pliny the Elder met his demise after so importantly documenting the eruption, and which has inspired a number of stories, plays and films throughout time. It is no wonder then, that these should be places to visit when you are in the area. They are pretty impressive sights and well worth a visit.
Pompeii is the larger of the two sites and it is worth spending around 2-3 hours there. If you want to avoid the full throngs of people, then I would suggest going around the lunch period - only problem with this is that it will be hot! Well, that obviously depends on the time of year that you go... You can quite literally imagine yourself in Ancient times as you walk through the vias or cross the giant pedestrian crossings, and I could almost hear the hustle and bustle of daily Roman life just by looking into the various buildings. Among some of the most well known artefacts discovered at the site include the Cave Cane ("Beware of the dog") mosaic and the plaster citizens.
Herculaneum is the better preserved site, insofar as you can still see some of the colours on the mosaic tesserae and much of the building structure remained intact. The reason it is preserved despite being much closer to the volcano, is mainly due to the direction of the wind on the day of the eruption meant that the village was spared from the heavy ash fall. The engulfing pyroclastic flows and surges which inundated the village filled the buildings and helped to maintain the structure.
If you have time and can go to both, I do very much recommend it. There is a ticket that you can get which covers 5 sites, including these two and works out slightly cheaper (even if you don't want to do the other three). You can use it over 3 consecutive days so you don't have to worry about having to power through and cross Naples in a single day. It costs around €20 and if you show a valid European document, children under 18 can go for free. Another little titbit of info is that every first Sunday of the month is free entrance to all of the sites. You can check out the official site here for more information: www.pompeiisites.org
Somma Vesuvio & Solfatara
If you enjoy being in the great outdoors and are a volcano aficionado like me, then a trip up to the crater is a must.
With a tour guide you can go all the way up and walk around the rim of the crater, gazing in while wondering at the magma bubbling beneath the surface and when it is next likely to erupt. I remember first seeing the volcano from a distance many years ago and thinking how flat and small it looked. How can a volcano which has gone down in history and have caused such devastation, be so small and flat? You have to remember though that at each eruption, part of the edifice of the structure ends up exploding outwards by the force of the initial blast. ... I could go in more detail about the geology of the volcano and the reasons why this would happen, but I shall leave that for another blog!
The Solfatara, is a fumarole to the south west of the volcano near the town of Pozzuoli. I must warn you though that with the Solfatara that there isn't really much to see. You walk in to this open area and then go towards the fumaroles. There are some lovely rocks that you can pick up which glisten yellow. As would be expected in a heavily volcanic area, and with high sulphur emissions, the area smells of rotten eggs. Unfortunately, since I started writing this blog post, it seems that there was an accident at the Solfatara and certain areas may not be as stable as previously thought. While obviously it is recommended that you stay within the allowed areas, I am not sure whether the whole site has now been closed off temporarily. Check before you visit! It is worth a walk around Pozzuoli as well if you have time, particularly the marina area.
Walking around Naples
There are a few places in the world that really match the stereotype associated with them. I remember watching films (mainly of Pinocchio) where there are streets so close that the washing lines are roped between the two buildings. I couldn't help but smile while I was walking around watching the ladies passing the rope between two buildings and putting the washing out to dry while shouting down to a friend down in the street. Typical Neapolitan!
Within Naples, there are a couple of sites that are worthy of a visit. The amphitheatre around Pozzuoli, and the catacombs of San Gennaro. Much like the catacombs in both Paris and Rome, there is a hidden side of Naples. An underground Naples. Almost as if there is another village and a mini Pompeii underneath the streets. For me I guess that I like hidden sides to things - the fact that there can be something other than what the eye initially sees.
Amalfi Coast
The coast really is as beautiful as the pictures! Tall cliffs diving into idyllic blue waters below. The sea itself is lovely to swim in, but wherever you end up staying, be prepared to have to walk down and up many steps to get there. You can take boat tours to explore the coastline and visit the islands, and most of these will include a snorkelling stop. Areas of note to pay attention to: Capri, Grotta Blu, Propriano, Praiano and Sorrento. The other great thing about the Amalfi Coast are the number of walks that you can go on in the surrounding hillsides.
You are likely to be arriving to the Amalfi Coast by coach. I will warn you now, this bus journey is an experience! Cliff side on one side, with a sheer drop to blue seas on the other, and two coaches brushing past each other at speed. Apart from the local bus in Grenada in the Caribbean, I have never been happier to be on terra ferma!
Just a quick note...Sorrento is a pleasant little village, but please note that it is quite touristic. You will be asked to go into the restaurant for lunch every 30 seconds if you area down by the port area. Be prepared for this. It is a good location for taking trips around to the islands and across the peninsula. If you do stop in Sorrento, a great restaurant just off the main road is called zi 'Ntonio. The pizza is scrumptious and I recommend - while we spoke to them in Italian, I did hear the waiters speaking to other customers and their English is very good.
What do you think; where will you be heading to in the area? This is not an extensive list! There is so much to see around this area, that you can spend a week exploring and still not cover everything. Enjoy!
If you are planning to go to this lovely area of Italy, then be sure to check my upcoming blog on the foods that you simply must try when you are there. Yes, the classic pizza will be on the list!
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